October 2006

Dining Out Section
By Greg Eisenmenger

Ulysses: a top-tier steakhouse

   Ulysses’ Prime Steakhouse, the newest venture of Café Margaux’s Alex and Pam Litras, is about to put Brevard County in some elite company.  If the names Del Frisco’s, Charlie Trotter’s, Delmonico’s, Seagar’s and the Sardine Factory jog and memories of succulent steaks and sweet lobster tails, Ulysses’ is the place for you.  What do these restaurants have in common?  Allen Brothers USDA Prime meat.

  Allen Brothers is the gold standard for perfectly aged USDA prime meat, the highest quality grade assigned by the USDA (which describes it as “the ultimate in tenderness, juiciness and flavor”).  Ulysses’ has chosen their wet aged beef, a process where the meat is aged under vacuum-sealed plastic bags, which prevents moister from evaporating.  Natural enzymes then break down the meat’s complex proteins from the inside out, producing meat that is incredibly tender and juicy, with a flavor unique to this process.  As you may have guessed, I am a huge fan of Allen Brothers meat. But great meat is only a part of a great steakhouse; atmosphere, service and culinary technique complete the experience, and Ulysses’ scores a perfect ten on all counts.
The atmosphere is somewhat Mediterranean, in keeping with its Greek name, but the espresso brown walls, leather-like window treatments and gold and copper touches give it a definite masculine feeling.
Alex kept the open kitchen concept but with a twist. He surrounded the cooking area with a translucent stained glass.  You can watch the chef at work, but in abstract, not unlike Shadow Theater. The chef, Jason Tones (formerly of Providence Prime in Rhode Island), has the ultimate tools to work with, including a 900-degree gas broiler (installed at cost of $13,000). We began with a variety of appetizers. The jumbo shrimp cocktail ($12) featured five huge shrimp with an enticing house-created fire-roasted tomato cocktail sauce. The shrimp were cold and crunchy, without a hint of rubberyness. We also tried the lobster bisque ($9), a blend of their West Australian and South African lobster tails (more on those later); this exquisite heavy-cream soup is finished with amontillado sherry.  It was one of the best bisques I have ever experienced.
The filet carpaccio ($13) was flavorful, but slices were a little thick for my taste. The carpaccio is served with a delightful array of Greek olives and arranged on a bed of mixed greens tossed in horseradish vinaigrette; shavings or percorino Romano and a lemon basil oil complete the dish. The cheese was perfect, but I would have preferred a simple virgin olive oil.  However, these complaints are mere nitpicking as the overall quality of the dish was excellent. The star of the appetizers was the seared duck liver ($19). While I still prefer the more romantic French term, foie gras, whatever you call it, this elegantly presented appetizer is a dish fit for kings.  Sautéed with sauterne-braised figs, then drizzled with mandarin black pepper gastrique ( a thick sauce produced by a reduction of vinegar or wine, sugar and, usually, fruit).  Served on a date-infused challah toast and topped with chervil, this dish was a feast for the eyes as well as the tongue.  Beluga caviar ($180 per ounce) is also available for those with an unlimited dining-out budget. As is traditional in a steakhouse setting, salads and side dished area a la carte. We tried two of the salad offerings, the roasted garlic Caesar ($8) and the spinach basil salad ($12). The Caesar is a striking presentation with whole romaine leaves, pecorino Romano cheese and Moroccan anchovies. The Caesar dressing is wonderful, and the portions are, if anything, too large. I would love to see a traditional tableside-prepared Caesar, but until then, this is about as good as you could get. The baby spinach and aromatic Greek basil make a pleasant,, if monochromatic, salad.  The warm balsamic fig vinaigrette was a little bland for my taste. The shaved Parmesan, wrapped in Parma proscuito, was a wonderful accompaniment.  Ulysses’ signature salad ($6), greens tossed with roasted Vidalia onions, cherry tomatoes, red peppers and a green olive oregano vinaigrette, is an intriguing alternative.
The sides, patates psites ($3), Greek roasted potatoes with olive oil, lemon juice and oregano; haricots verts ($5), crisp-cooked thin French green beans; celery root mashed potatoes ($3); asparagus with hollandaise sauce ($5) and my personal favorite, caramelized chippolinis ($5), tiny onions sautéed until tender, served in a roasted garlic goat cheese béchamel. The patates psites are a close second.
The entrées at Ulysses’ are insanely good. The only possible criticism is the portions are so large it is virtually impossible to finish. We ordered four entrées. The first was Chateaubriand for two ($69), 22 ounces of USDA prime filet mignon, featuring the center cut (the most tender portion of the most tender cut of beef).  I run out of superlatives, trying to describe this dish. Suffice it to say it is the best of the best.
Other steak choices include Wagyu ribeye steak ($52); this meat comes from tru bloodline Wagyu Masami natural cattle, source verified and raised in the USA according to the traditional Japanese method for Kobe beef.  This same beef is featured in the Wagyu short ribs ($33), two eight-ounce beef ribs braised in a rosé roasted vegetable ragout, then topped with gremolota (traditionally a mixture of olive oil garlic, parsley and grated lemon peel), over dried cherry St. André brie risotto.  Allen Brothers USDA prime porterhouse ($48), s trip steak ($39) and ribeye ($36 boneless; $38 bone-in) are also available.
A unique concept at Ulysses’ is the sauce trolley. A selection of sauces, rosemary cabernet demiglace de veau; chocolate demiglace de veau; pink and green peppercorn; and maltaise sauce are all available at no additional charge so that you can mix and match to your heart’s content. My dining companions gave high marks to all of the sauces, particularly the chocolate demiglace de veau. I’m a purist and stuck to the pure savory essence of beef. Seafood entrées at Ulysses’ are limited to lobster alone, and that’s not a bad thing because the lobster is outstanding. We tried two of the three variations; West Australian lobster tail ($46) and South African lobster tail ($48). The Aussie version is a monster 12-ounce cold-water lobster tail with a pear-walnut risotto.  This West Australian tail was as good a lobster as I have ever had. This is also available in a split six-ounce portion ($32).
My wife was most impressed with the South African lobster tail and found the two four-ounce tails to be sweeter and more delicate that the Australian tail. To each his or her own- I’m going for the gusto. A bonzer Australian tail is my recommendation. I haven’t mentioned the wines.  We dined at an exclusive preview of Ulysses’ (Alex opened the restaurant just for the four of us, days before the official opening, since I was scheduled to be out of town for the official opening).  Because Pam and Alex are longtime friends of mine, it is impossible for me to dine anonymously at either of their restaurants.  You can consider this as you read this reviews, but your first meal will demonstrate that friendship had nothing to do with my opinion of the restaurant.  Ulysses’ speaks for itself.
The wine list for Ulysses’ was still being prepared when we dined there, so we ordered off the Café Margaux list.  Our choices were a 2000 Talbott chardonnay, Sleepy Hollow Vineyard, California ($52), which we enjoyed with the appetizers, salads, and lobster, and a 2001 Gaja “Rennina,” Bruello di Montalcino ($160), which we treated ourselves to with the steaks.  Both were magnificent. Desserts are, as you would expect, outrageously good at Ulysses’.  Macadamia pecan baklava ($8) is the Greek entry. The phyllo is so thin you can see through it, and the macadamia nuts are a neat twist to this traditional favorite. The bread pudding ($6), challah bread pudding with figs, dates, raisins and apricots, topped with a spiced rum caramel, is easily the best bread
pudding I have ever had.