October 27, 2006
TGIF Pg. 35
Dining out
By Gene Cate

   Search for fine dining yields Ulysses’

   It seems Cocoa Village has quickly become the area’s fine dining mecca. Quite possibly, the presence of a large number of upscale condos with a commensurate number of well-heeled diners, all within walking distance, has played a large part in making high-end dining feasible. Take heed Melbourne.
The latest addition to the restaurant scene is Ulysses’ Prime Steakhouse, the brainchild of Alex Litras, owner of the next door Café Margaux.  Ulysses’ may well be the ne plus ultra among the Village restaurants, as well as the rest of the county. Pricey to say the least, diners who fail to read the menu posted outside the door may be susceptible to sticker shock.  However, the old adage, “You get what you pay for,” is applicable here.
Nicely appointed, the restaurant is somewhat small, but cozy with room enough between tables for quiet conversation.  Tables are attractively set with crisp lines, nice flatware and glasses.  The only jarring note in the otherwise pleasant setting is the artwork, abstract paintings done in loud colors which don’t mesh with the surroundings. Service is exactly what one might expect out of a fine dining establishment.  On the evening of our visit, a team of four servers quietly and efficiently worked the room.  No real table assignments.  Obviously the team concept works here. With a martini ($6.95) and a glass of Argyle Pinot Noir ($10) to start, we perused the menu and decided on the Chateaubriand for two ($72) preceded by a lobster bisque ($9) and a Caesar salad ($10). The bisque was deliciously thick and rich with the pronounced flavor of fresh lobster.  Our request to split the Caesar resulted in an unusual presentation in that we each received a plate upon which there were two whole Romaine leaves individually dressed and accompanied by Pecorino Romano and anchovy filets.  An excellent presentation with a very tasty dressing. Other appetizers include a beef carpaccio ($13), seared duck liver ($19) or an ounce of beluga caviar with garnishes and toast points ($175). In addition to the Caesar, there’s a house salad ($6), a baby arugala ($8) and a spinach and basil ($12). As expected, steak dominates the menu with most-14-ounce strip, 16-ounce ribeye and 10-ounce filet- priced in the $30 range.  A 24-ounce porterhouse ($48) and a 16-ounce Wagyu ribeye ($56) are among the pricier offerings. If lobster is more to your liking, the house offers an 8-ounce South African lobster tail ($54) and a 10-ounce ($36) or 20-ounce ($56) Australian lobster tail. Accompaniments to entrees are a la carte, and our choices of Greek-style roasted potatoes ($3) and asparagus with hollandaise ($5) were nicely done. Sauces to grace the steaks come in a sort of candelabra-type rack with four small bowls containing rosemary/cabernet of chocolate demiglace, a bourbon-laced pink and green peppercorn and an orange hollandaise.  Quiet the unique presentation. For dessert, I couldn’t resist the macadamia pecan baklava ($8), a wonderfully sweet confection that was a fitting end to the meal.  Snifters of Grand Mariner ($7.25) topped off the evening. Full bar service is available, and the wine list is sufficiently varied for most tastes.  Prices range from $31 for a Kenwood Sauvignon Blanc to $130 for a Brunello di Montalcino, with most somewhere in between. In summation, Ulysses’ is definitely upscale fine dining with an excellent ambiance, great service and quality food.  Reservations are a necessity. One admonition: Please dress as if you’re going someplace special. You are.